Hopper had his famous Nighthawks place. Here's the California equivalent on Ocean Avenue, Chez Jay, right next to the Rand Corporation, the think-tank that plans our wars for us.

Even the pier looks a bit like something from Hopper. But the only famous Hopper in these parts is the actor Dennis Hooper, who lives a few miles south in Venice Beach.

It's not all Hopper alienation. It's sometimes just mildly surreal - the bronze surfer with the briefcase at the Lowe's hotel, across from Chez Jay.

Ah, the kids still play at the beach, in the long winter light at noon.

But all is not well here, at least on Lincoln Boulevard.